Founded in 1847, Cartier has shaped the landscape of haute horology with groundbreaking designs, refined complications, and a distinct flair for merging jewellery with watchmaking. The brand’s most celebrated pieces are not only stunning, prestigious fashion statements; they are also important milestones in design history.
This fusion of artistry and innovation explains why Cartier’s rarest models continue to command top prices at auction. For those lucky enough to own one, a Cartier watch is often a smart investment, and we’re proud to help our clients uncover the true value of their Cartier watches through a free, no-obligation valuation.
Below, we take a closer look at some of the most expensive Cartier watches ever sold, including some lesser-known masterpieces that deserve recognition. They’re also some of the most coveted pieces the world over, by collectors and connoisseurs alike.
The Most Expensive Cartier Watches Ever Sold
The Cartier Phoenix Décor Secret Watch – ≈ £2.1 million
Topping the list is the Cartier Phoenix Décor Secret Watch, a mesmerising one-of-a-kind piece that blurs the line between jewellery and watchmaking.
Shaped like a mythical phoenix mid-flight, this sculptural marvel is adorned with over 80 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds, each meticulously set to enhance the creature’s dramatic wingspan. Two striking emerald eyes give the bird a lifelike presence, while a hidden dial tucked within the plumage adds a touch of intrigue and secrecy.
This masterpiece is a showcase of Cartier’s haute joaillerie at its boldest: imaginative, radiant, and technically brilliant. Often cited as the most expensive Cartier watch ever sold, it embodies transformation, rarity, and rebirth, themes echoed in the phoenix itself.
2. The Cartier London Crash – £1.2 million
Few watches capture the imagination like the Cartier Crash. Originally released in 1967 by Cartier London, the Crash’s surreal, asymmetrical design is said to have been inspired by a watch warped in a car accident, though some speculate it was simply a bold artistic statement. Either way, the “melted” silhouette struck a chord with collectors seeking something extraordinary.
In May 2022, an early yellow gold model of the Crash fetched an astounding £1.2 million at auction, proof of its cult-like following and near-mythical status. Its rarity, especially from the original London production, makes it one of the most coveted vintage watches in the world.
3. Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse – £966,000
A modern marvel released in 2022, this version of the Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse takes the concept of mystery to a whole new level. Its revolutionary design hides the connection between the winding crown and the movement, creating the illusion that the mechanics are floating in mid-air. The entire movement is built into a skeletonised oscillating weight, cleverly engineered to rotate while maintaining accurate timekeeping.
It’s also already earned a place among the brand’s most revered and expensive works, with a retail price of around £966,000. Crafted from platinum and diamonds, this futuristic timepiece carries on Cartier’s century-old tradition of mystery clocks in a wristwatch format. Perhaps it’s a symbol of what the future of horology might look like?
4. The Cartier Cheich Watch – £824,000
Created in the early 1980s, the Cartier Cheich is a legendary trophy as much as it is a timepiece. Commissioned as a prize for the winner of two consecutive Paris-Dakar Rallies, the Cheich features a distinctive design inspired by the flowing headwear of desert riders. Its gold cloth-like bezel, curved to mimic a draped turban, is unlike anything else in Cartier’s catalogue.
In 2022, this remarkable watch crossed the block at Sotheby’s Paris and sold for £824,000, shattering pre-sale estimates. Given that only one was ever awarded – and that it remained unworn for decades – its value lies as much in its symbolism as its scarcity.
5. The Cartier Tortue Minute Repeater (1931) – £750,000
Elegant, rare, and technically brilliant, the 1931 Cartier Tortue Minute Repeater holds a special place in horological history. It was the first minute repeater ever recorded in Cartier’s archives, a high complication that chimes the hours and minutes on demand. At auction, this piece achieved a £750,000 price tag, which is a reflection of both its technical importance and incredible rarity.
Crafted in Cartier’s signature Tortue (“tortoise”) case, the watch combines aesthetic sophistication with mechanical mastery. Its curved silhouette reflects Art Deco elegance, while the chiming movement inside marks a key moment in the brand’s evolution into serious watchmaking.
Other High-Value Cartier Timepieces
While not all of Cartier’s most exquisite pieces have broken auction records, several still command immense respect and have price tags to match. These watches showcase the Maison’s mastery in blending technical innovation with luxurious design, making them essential additions to any serious collector’s radar.
Cartier Ballon Bleu Tourbillon Diamond – £700,000
This extra-large Ballon Bleu is a commanding presence at 46mm, elevated by a dazzling array of diamonds and a tourbillon complication that enhances precision while displaying exceptional craftsmanship. Housed in a case crafted from precious metals and finished with a transparent case back, it balances technical mastery with aesthetic impact. Retailing at approximately £700,000, it’s a prime example of Cartier’s ability to fuse horological complexity with jewellery-grade luxury.
Cartier Extra Large Tortue High Complication – £327,050
One of only 15 ever made, this platinum Cartier Tortue exemplifies exclusivity. Measuring 43mm across with a refined 10.7mm profile, the watch boasts a transparent case back that showcases its intricate inner workings. Paired with a luxurious black alligator leather strap, this high-complication model embodies Cartier’s sophisticated engineering and timeless design. Selling for over £327,000, it remains a prized piece among seasoned collectors who value scarcity and refinement.
Cartier Panthère Reference 315AF – £266,000
A true statement of Cartier’s high-jewellery legacy, this Panthère bangle watch, sold in 2022 for £266,000, is both a functional timepiece and an extraordinary work of art. Crafted in white gold, the design features an exquisitely sculpted panther adorned with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds. The watch pays homage to Cartier’s most iconic motif, the panther, capturing its elegance, strength, and allure in a pavé setting. It’s a watch that doesn’t just tell time, but tells a story of opulence and identity.
Cartier Models and Collections You Should Look For
All Cartier watches make beautiful additions to personal collections. But many are also shrewd long-term investments.
Here are a few models and collections you may find on the market, or available second-hand, that are worth keeping an eye on:
Cartier Crash
A true outlier in the world of watch design, the Cartier Crash is as unconventional as it is coveted.
- It features a surreal, asymmetrical case inspired by the spirit of the 1960s avant-garde.
- It has a historically limited production, especially from the original Cartier London editions.
- They’ve often performed well at auctions in the past, regularly fetching large sums.
- They’re beloved by artists, tastemakers, and collectors seeking something entirely unique.
Cartier Tank (Especially the Cintree Skeleton model)
The Cartier Tank is a staple of elegance, and the Cintree Skeleton adds a layer of technical allure.
- The skeletonised dial reveals Cartier’s expert finishing and movement architecture.
- The timeless rectangular case design dates back over 100 years.
- It’s a collectors’ favourite for blending heritage with innovation.
- The limited production keeps resale value consistently strong.
Cartier Santos
With aviation roots and modern reinterpretations, the Santos is both historic and highly wearable.
- It was originally designed in 1904 for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont.
- It was one of the first wristwatches ever created, marking a key moment in horological history.
- Its contemporary editions include two-tone, skeletonised, and ADLC-coated models.
- It retains its value reliably, thanks to its widespread popularity and enduring design.
Cartier Panthère
Equal parts jewellery and timepiece, the Panthère continues to enchant collectors.
- It features the iconic panther motif, a symbol of femininity, grace, and power.
- It’s often produced with high jewellery finishes, including diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires.
- Its vintage and limited editions see frequent interest at high-end sales.
- It combines the allure of fine jewellery with the functionality of a luxury watch, making it a standout for female collectors.
Why Rare Cartier Watches Are Increasing in Value
The surge in demand for rare Cartier watches is the result of shifting market dynamics, evolving tastes, and a growing appreciation for Cartier’s legacy in both design and watchmaking innovation.
Increased Demand, Limited Supply
As more collectors and investors turn their attention to luxury timepieces, Cartier’s rare models have emerged as standout assets. Unlike mass-produced modern watches, many of Cartier’s most desirable pieces, like the original Crash or early Tank editions, were produced in extremely limited numbers. This scarcity drives competition at auctions and private sales, pushing values steadily higher. With global demand growing and no way to increase historical supply, prices continue to rise.
A New Generation of Collectors
Cartier has enjoyed a remarkable resurgence in popularity among younger collectors and fashion-forward buyers. Social media, celebrity endorsements, and a renewed focus on vintage luxury have all contributed to a revival of interest in models like the Panthère and Santos. This fresh demand is backed by a more educated, investment-minded audience looking to combine aesthetic appeal with financial potential.
Emotional Value and Iconic Status
Cartier watches have always stood for more than just mechanical precision. They represent status, heritage, and personal history. For many, a Cartier piece is tied to a family legacy or a significant life event. This emotional weight adds another layer of value, making certain pieces priceless to the right buyer. When that emotional resonance meets rarity and craftsmanship, it creates the perfect conditions for strong resale values.
Thinking of Selling a Cartier Watch?
Whether you’ve inherited a rare Cartier or simply want to explore your timepiece’s true market value, Burlingtons Ltd. offers a personalised, free, home valuation service across the UK. There are no hidden fees, there is no obligation, and payment is made immediately upon agreement of sale.
We bring over 25 years of market knowledge and a reputation for integrity, discretion, and exceptional client care right to your door. No matter what you want from a valuation and sale, we’re here to help you get a fair, competitive price. Contact us today to book your slot and let experts help you sell your Cartier watch with confidence.
