Considering Patek Phillipe’s Calatrava Collection

The Calatrava collection is the crown jewel of the Patek Philippe brand and a shining milestone in its legacy. The first Calatrava watch, launched in 1932, quickly established itself in the hearts and minds of the fashion-conscious. Today, all watches in this collection hold a distinguished reputation as statement dress watches of unparalleled quality and craftsmanship.

Below, we’ve delved deeper into the details surrounding the Patek Philippe Calatrava collection. This includes their designs, potential complications and functions, rarer models, and expected prices. Find out more about this classic collection with us.

Calatrava Case Sizes

The Calatrava collection comes in diverse case sizes. The majority of these will be between 33mm and 37mm, or 38mm and 39mm for the largest designs. However, you may also find sizes as small as 27mm. 

The Calatrava 6119G and 6119R (introduced at Watches & Wonders 2021) are widely believed to be the largest models in the collection. Both have case sizes of 40mm.

Calatrava Dial Colours

The dial colours available for Calatrava watches reflect their heritage and position as one of the longest-standing collections in the brand:

  • Black
  • Blue
  • Grey
  • Light
  • Gemset

Calatrava Materials

Patek Philippe uses a carefully curated selection of materials to make the watches of the Calatrava collection:

  • Yellow Gold
  • White Gold
  • Rose Gold
  • Platinum

Calatrava Strap Colours

The collection also offers a range of different strap colours, meaning each dial is complemented and a true statement piece is made:

  • Brown Leather
  • Black Leather
  • Grey Leather
  • Purple Leather
  • Calfskin (brushed or not)

Calatrava Date

Visually simplistic but nonetheless stunning and luxurious, Calatrava Date models traditionally offer a classic design with a date display window at the 3 o’clock mark. The models are commonly available in yellow, white, and rose gold.

Calatrava Ladies

These models are specifically aimed at the female market and are designed with smaller wrists in mind. This is made obvious by the smaller case sizes available. Generally, these will be around 35mm. Some timepieces may also feature bezels set with diamonds and feature plain dials made without complications.

Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

One of the more complicated watches in the collection, Patek Philippe released the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 7234 in 2019. A 1920s pilots’ watch style, available in white or rose gold, and measuring 37.5mm in diameter, this model truly combines practicality and elegance. White gold models come with a blue dial and rose gold variants have brown dials.

An automatic in-house calibre 324 S C FUS hours, minutes, and seconds, and also displays the time in an additional time zone with its extra central hand. Hours on the GMT function can be jump-set with two screw-down push-pieces on the left-hand side of the case. The pointer date at the 6 o’clock mark can be corrected in both directions using the crown on the right-hand side.

For a slightly larger model, it’s also possible to find the Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524. This has a diameter of 42mm.

Calatrava Travel Time Annual Calendar

In 2022, Patek Philippe released another pilots’ watch design, in the model ref. 5326G. The watch design’s calibre 31‑260 PS QA LU FUS 24H means it’s equipped with:

  • An annual calendar
  • A second time zone
  • A day/night indicator
  • A moon phase display
  • Small seconds

The date window, moon phase indicator, and small seconds are all located at the 6 o’clock position on the dial. The weekday and month windows are just below 12 o’clock, and the second time zone is indicated by an extra hand.

Guilloché Bezel Models

Models featuring guilloché “Clous de Paris” bezels, with Roman numerals and feuille hands are well-known within the trade. They’re also highly coveted by collectors. Those interested in finding these stylish, sophisticated models should look for references:

  • 3919 (33mm), released in 1985 and continued until 2006.
  • 5119 (36mm), which succeeded the 3919 and has similar characteristics.
  • 6119 (39mm), which succeeded the 5119 and is powered by the hand-wound calibre 30-255 PS, superseding its predecessor – the calibre 215 PS.

Ref. 3919 and ref. 5119 are available in yellow, white, and rose gold. Ref. 6119 is available in white gold and rose gold.

You might also see some of these models using the name “Hobnail”.

Date Display Models

The original design of the Calatrava watch didn’t have a date display. However, there have been references manufactured since which contain this complication. As of 2022, Patek Philippe has two models available for sale.

The first of these is the ref. 5227 (39mm), which retains the classic Calatrava style in monochrome black or champagne dial designs. It’s also produced with applied line indices, dauphine hands, and a date window at the 3 o’clock mark. It’s powered by the automatic calibre 324 S C.

The other is the ref. 5226G (40mm). Apart from the date display window appearing at the 3 o’clock mark, this watch model doesn’t adhere to the Calatrava style tradition. Instead, it presents a unique black-patterned dial, applied lume-filled Arabic numerals, and lume-filled syringe hands. The design is reminiscent of pilots’ watches from the 1930s and 1940s.

The 5226G’s automatic in-house calibre 26-330 S C is ultra-thin, meaning the watch is also slim enough to slip directly under a shirt sleeve cuff. 

Discontinued Models

There are also models which are no longer part of the collection, but which you may still find second-hand:

  • Ref. 5296
  • Ref. 5153

Both of these were produced in the timeless Calatrava style. They include a range of models with either monochrome or sector dials.

Pointer Date Models

For some years, Patek Philippe took to producing Calatrava collection models with a pointer date under the reference numbers 6000 (37mm) and 6006 (39mm). These models have an extra central hand that indicates the date at the outer edge of the dial. 

With an in-house calibre 240 P SC built in, these references also feature a small seconds complication between 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock. They also feature 48-hour power reserves. 

The Original Models

The very first edition of the Patek Philippe Calatrava watch has the reference number 96. For a lover of vintage watches, this is often the model to aspire for. There are various models of this watch available, but the original and most common is the 31mm gold edition. This has:

  • A flat, polished bezel
  • Baton indices
  • Dauphine hands
  • Small seconds displayed at the 6 o’clock mark

The model is also available in two-hand versions, with a sector dial or with Breguet numerals.

The modern successor to the ref. 96 is the ref. 5196 (36mm). It was part of the collection until late 2022, and is available in yellow, white, or rose gold.

Special or Limited Edition Pieces

The Calatrava collection is famous for its delicately refined style, but occasionally a model will be released with a highly elaborate and ornate style. These are usually special or limited editions and are prized by collectors.

The Special Edition 6007A-001 (40mm)

1000 were released in 2019 to celebrate the opening of Patek Philippe’s new production facility.

The watch features a grey-blue checkerboard patterned dial and luminous white Arabic numerals. The baton hour and minute hands resemble those of the ref. 6006. The watch is powered by an automatic calibre 324 S C and features a calfskin leather strap colour-complemented to the dial.

The movement of this watch is only 3.3mm thick; a wearer can watch it at work through the sapphire crystal case back. Authentic models will also feature an engraving of the Calatrava cross and the inscription “New Manufacture 2019” on the back.

The Calatrava 5089

This watch line is part of a “Rare Handcraft” edition with particularly beautiful and artistically-designed dials. For example, the ref. 5089G-015 features a white gold dial engraved with a scene of Lake Geneva. Meanwhile, the ref. 5089G-066 features a wood inlay dial engraved with a scene of the Grand Canyon. 

How Much is a Calatrava Collection Watch in the UK?

Calatrava collection watches vary hugely in price, depending on factors such as size, design and ornamentation, availability, and case materials used. Smaller, older models from the 1950s and 1960s are considered the most affordable vintage entry point to collecting these watches. An example of this is reference number 3470 (29mm in yellow gold). 

This watch may be found at starting prices of around £4,500, and so may models of ref. 3468 and ref. 2451. Newer quartz-powered models for women are available as well but are slightly more expensive, beginning at about £6,000. 

On the other end of the spectrum, you can expect to find more elaborate models with more expensive materials used in their creation. One of the best and most expensive examples of this is the ref. 5089G-015, 39mm in white gold with annual calendar, GMT, and moon phase indicator functions. This watch will cost around £110,400.

Prices for Popular Models

Many recent models in the Calatrava collection have experienced a significant increase in price. Price changes here can also be clearly seen through the use of different materials. Ref. 5196, for instance, is typically priced at around £20,500 when made in yellow gold but £33,600 when made in platinum. 

Popular but exclusive pieces also fetch high prices; the limited edition ref. 6007A-001 in stainless steel is a good example of this. Only 1,000 timepieces were made of this variant and they may be purchased for somewhere in the region of £61,000. 

When looking to sell a pre-owned Calatrava watch, the best way to increase the selling price is to find a dedicated enthusiast. A lot of collectors will be willing to pay prices you wouldn’t otherwise reach, including in auction houses. Burlingtons Ltd. is well-connected in the trade of prestigious and exquisite pieces and regularly works in collaboration with these individuals.

Valuing a Patek Philippe Calatrava

Not even taking into consideration our network of buyers, you’ll always have the chance to sell your watch for what it is truly worth with our service. The process begins with you getting in touch and booking a professional valuation. Our team member, Daniel, has years of expertise in identifying and valuing a myriad of authentic luxury watches. 

Daniel will inspect your watch and pinpoint its true market value based on several factors:

  • The age of the watch
  • Overall condition
  • Confirmed use of precious metals, and the identification of said metals
  • The presence of precious stones, such as diamonds
  • Complications used in the watch
  • The watch’s functions

Based on these, he will present you with a selling price offer that represents a competitive market price. This will be among the highest prices you’ll find, as you’ll avoid the often large fees attached to an auction.

Great Prices for Fine Patek Philippe Calatrava Watches

Have you got an iconic Calatrava model to sell? Or do you wish to sell a Patek Philippe watch from any other collection? If so, Burlingtons Ltd. is the private buying and selling service you need. Our team will be glad to talk to you about your timepiece as soon as you get in touch. They can then book you in for your free, no-obligation valuation. 

These quick but thorough valuations are all conducted by a specialist, in the comfort of your own home, at a date and time that suits you. Payments are instant and made directly into your bank account.

Call us or send us an email if you’d like to find out more about how our service works, or to sell a fine example of Patek Philippe’s flagship collection today.

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    October 30, 2023

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