From early chronographs to ultra-thin dress watches and the groundbreaking Royal Oak, vintage Audemars Piguet models continue to capture the attention of collectors and connoisseurs worldwide. Some of these watches are so rare that only a handful were ever made. Others have become icons in their own right, commanding exceptional valuations at auction and in private sales.
In this curated selection, we highlight eight of the rarest, most important, and most valuable old and vintage Audemars Piguet watches. Some of these models not only hold tremendous financial worth but also represent important milestones in the history of Swiss watchmaking.
1. Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 5402ST (1972)
Introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 5402ST revolutionised the luxury watch industry as the first high-end sports watch made of stainless steel. Designed by the legendary GĆ©rald Genta, its distinctive octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet set a new standard for watch design. Early “A-Series” models, especially those in excellent condition, are highly sought after by collectors.
Notably, a rare variant featuring the “Khanjar” emblem fetched 756,000 CHF (Ā£684,644) at auction, underscoring its exceptional value.
2. Royal Oak Offshore āThe Beastā Ref. 25721PT
Debuting in 1997, only seven examples of this platinum edition were ever produced, making it one of the rarest Royal Oak Offshore models in existence. Crafted with a substantial 42mm platinum case, this model was far ahead of its time, blending robustness with refined craftsmanship. The rarity of this piece, combined with its historical importance as the inaugural Offshore model, has made it immensely desirable among serious collectors.
At auction, the first-known example of the Ref. 25721PT achieved an impressive sale price of 190,500 CHF (Ā£172,519), a testament to its enduring appeal and the strong demand for vintage Royal Oak Offshore models in today’s market.
3. Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25829TP
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25829TP stands out for its intricate complications and limited production. Crafted with a platinum and tantalum case, this model features a āskeletonā dial revealing the complex perpetual calendar mechanism beneath. Only 16 pieces were produced, making it exceedingly rare.
One such watch achieved a remarkable auction price of 768,100 CHF (Ā£695,602).
4. Royal Oak JubilƩe Ref. 14802PT (1992)
To commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet released the limited-edition Ref. 14802PT in 1992. Crafted in platinum with a unique “Tuscan” dial, only 20 pieces were ever made.
This model’s rarity and distinctive design have made it a collector’s favourite, with one example selling for 804,400 CHF (Ā£728,476) at auction.
5. Vintage Chronograph Ref. 1530 (1942)
Produced during the 1940s, this model is a shining example of the brandās early commitment to technical precision and refined aesthetics, long before the Royal Oak changed the face of luxury watchmaking.
What makes the Ref. 1533 particularly special is its rarity. During the 1940s, Audemars Piguetās production was incredibly limited. As a result, itās believed that only a handful of Ref. 1533 chronographs were ever made, making each surviving example a true treasure.
One example of the Ref. 1533 sold at auction for nearly 165,995 CHF (Ā£150,301), a reflection not only of its scarcity but also its growing importance among vintage watch enthusiasts.
6. Dress Watches with Caliber 2003 (1950s)
The 1950s marked a golden era for elegant wristwatches, and Audemars Piguet was at the forefront of this movement with the introduction of their ultra-thin dress watches powered by the Caliber 2003. This calibre, developed in collaboration with Jaeger-LeCoultre, set a new benchmark for slim, refined timepieces at just 1.64mm thick.
These dress watches had the worldās thinnest hand-wound mechanical movement for decades and often came housed in cases made from 18-carat gold or even platinum. They also offered a slim profile which is exceptionally comfortable to wear.
Depending on condition, provenance, and rarity, examples can command prices up to 24,879 CHF (Ā£22,545) with particularly pristine or rare variants fetching even more at auction. While not the most expensive type on this list, they are very much sought after by collectors as they represent one of the earliest breakthroughs in ultra-thin mechanical watchmaking.
7. Royal Oak A-Series Ref. 5402ST
Designed by GĆ©rald Genta, the Royal Oak A-Series was the first true luxury sports watch, boldly crafted from stainless steel ā considered a daring choice at the time. Early A-Series examples are still highly sought after to this day, with well-preserved pieces often commanding prices exceeding 82,922 CHF (Ā£75,100) at auction. Their timeless design and historic significance ensure they continue to captivate both seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts alike.
8. Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25820ST āYves Klein Blueā
Named for its vivid deep blue āGrand Tapisserieā dial, this reference combines the sporty elegance of the Royal Oak with the mechanical complexity of a perpetual calendar. The dialās rich, saturated blue, which is reminiscent of the iconic pigment favoured by the French artist Yves Klein, gives it an unmistakable presence on the wrist.
As interest in Royal Oak complications has grown among discerning collectors, the āYves Klein Blueā dial variation has become particularly coveted. Well-preserved examples of this rare reference now regularly trade for over 248,833 CHF (Ā£225,383), making it one of the most desirable modern-vintage pieces in the Royal Oak lineage.
Are You Considering Selling an Audemars Piguet Watch?
If you own an Audemars Piguet timepiece and are considering selling it, Burlingtons Ltd. offers a personalised and discreet service tailored to your needs. With over 25 years of experience, we can offer you a free, in-home valuation, ensuring your watch is assessed accurately and respectfully. Our extensive network of collectors allows us to offer competitive prices, often surpassing auction house estimates, without the burden of hidden fees.
All payments are made immediately upon acceptance of our offer. Get in touch with us to find out more or to book today.
